Fragrance Review: Salvatore Ferragamo – Signorina Misteriosa

In 2019, Salvatore Ferragamo trimmed its Signorina line, discontinuing 3 of its 5 fragrances and adding a new one. This leaves us now with only with 3 versions of Signorina: the original Eau de Parfum, the brand new launch Signorina Ribelle, and the subject of today’s review, Signorina Misteriosa.

Now, the mystery is: why discontinue beautiful Signorina Eleganza instead of this?

Review

The 3rd and final scent in the original Signorina lineup, Signorina Misteriosa was launched in 2016. It opens with its chief note, blackberry, and although I can say in its favour it’s not overly sweet… it loses these points on how artificial is smells.

The rendering of the supporting notes only reinforces this impression. Orange blossom comes more sweet than floral, smooth, but not in its best honeyed effect. Tuberose follows in its bubblier mood, taking the same grape soda vibe from Givenchy L’Interdit. The resulting accord, added to the tart but plasticky blackberry, is very reminicent of bubblegum or jelly beans – probably one of those that leave your tongue blue and a slightly annoying aftertaste.

Then there’s a subtle note of whipped cream floating around, fluffy and fresh, and I do like its soft presence… Yet, it makes me wish the blackberry and tuberose also smelled more natural to match.

The base of Signorina Misteriosa works (slightly) harder to justify its black bottle. It focuses on a half-earthy, half-minty patchouli that instantly reminded me of Mugler Angel. Now, if you’ve read my review of Angel, you know this minty take on patchouli is not my cup of tea, and I’m not a fan of it here, either. In fact, while much heavier and harder to wear, the patchouli in Angel has the vital counterpoint of chocolate; but here… it’s not like the tuberose needed more medicinal vibes to go with its grape soda impression.

Finally, although musk isn’t listed, I definitely get an important amount of it in Signorina Misteriosa. It’s sprayed as a fuzzy coating over the entire composition, and… yes, again, I don’t think it works all that well, as it gives off (to me) air freshener vibes.

Fragrance Impressions

Notes: (Top) blackberry, neroli; (Heart) tuberose, orange blossom; (Base) patchouli, whipped cream, vanilla.

Colour Impression: Purple-ish Blue.

Evokes: blackberry-flavoured jelly beans and bubblegum, next to a bowl of whipped cream.

Similar to: Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina Ribelle; Givenchy L’Interdit; Lalique Amethyst.

Season & Occasion: Autumn-Spring, evening, dressy casual.

Conclusion

Signorina Misteriosa does follow its line’s “DNA structure” of berries + hint of florals + creamy gourmand note. But I don’t think it manages to do so in a compelling way. It feels too candy-like for a “dark” scent, too artificial for a “blackberry” scent, and too earthy-musky for a “bubblegum” scent. Plus, for its price point, I find the “cheap artificial flavouring” feel of its notes, frankly, disappointing.

Showcasing the worst facets of its notes, and mixing accords that don’t go very well together, I find Signorina Misteriosa the weakest of its current line.

Of course, as always, this is just my personal opinion and taste. If Signorina Misteriosa works well for you, rock it and enjoy! I, however, would personally rather suggest…

Signorina Ribelle also follows the general style of its line, but feels more well-rounded. It goes happy-fun-bright with all its elements, with soft “bubblegum” berries, fuzzy but not overly sweet tropical florals and a lovely ice cream accord. Still quite simple and artificial, but pretty. I find it similar, yet nicer to wear than Signorina Misteriosa.

Or, if you’re looking for a more “natural”, unsweetened blackberry, the photo-realistic style of Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay may be the way to go! These blackberries feel fresh, right off the bush, with bitter leafy and woody undertones. No whipped cream here (quite a shame), but no bubblegum either. A word of caution, though: this lasts a very short time and is on the pricier side, so… not great in terms of cost-benefit, I’m afraid.

And, finally, if what you’re looking for is a (really) “dark & mysterious” fruity-tuberose… Dior Poison is a true classic with a lot of punch. Juicy plum, honey, incense, spices, and a hint of wild berries join the non-bubblegum-y (but still grape-y) main note of tuberose, over a sandalwood base. Yes, it’s more old-fashioned… but also deeper, more complex and fascinating!