Powdery, sweet, sometimes showing slight woody or “medicinal” tones, violet is a unique floral note. Opaque but charming, it often adds a vintage, romantic flair to compositions.
Here are some relevant fragrances that highlight violet. Similar scents are listed close, so if you like a fragrance on the list, you might also enjoy its “neighbours”.
The titles are linked to my full review, when avaliable!
Floral Violet
Annick Goutal – La Violette
With only 4 notes, this softly sweet soliflore smells like powdery-velvety purple violets, and a hint of fresh green leaves. This must be the most straightforward, natural-smelling violet in this list, so a great one to sniff if you want to become familiar with this note. A word of caution, though: La Violette smells lovely and intense for a while, then *poof!*, dissapears completely after just a few hours.
Guerlain – Aqua Allegoria Flora Salvaggia
A bit more complex and long-lasting, but just as airy and pretty as La Violette, Guerlain’s new Aqua Allegoria for 2021 pairs a delicate, non-medicinal, softly sweet violet with bright wild flowers (the accord reminds me of freesia) and watermelon, over a soft, warm base. This must be the “easiest” violet frangrance to wear on the list, for those who aren’t crazy about this note’s sweet, powdery and medicinal facets.
Gucci – Guilty
The violet in Gucci Guilty is noticeable, but a “co-star”, hand-in-hand with earthy-nectary lilac, bitter geranium, and a hint of rose. Delicate and fresh, this note adds a powdery-sweet nuance to the composition, which has a very interesting vintage-evoking yet modern feel. This is a lovely option if you’re looking for a subtle, non-medicinal hint of violet in a floral bouquet.
Guerlain – Aprés L’Ondée
This fragrance from 1906 showcases velvety violets, with a medicinal impression. Heliotrope, iris & orris add to its antique cosmetic aura, and there’s a hint of sweet mimosa, spicy carnation, sandalwood, and balsamic notes. The effect is powdery-earthy, and yet, dewy. A bit heavy in the opening, but charmingly old-fashioned, this smells straight out of an Edwardian apothecary shop!
Sweet Violet
Guerlain – Insolence
Violet sweets in a bottle! With subtle support of red berries, tonka and iris, Insolence is all about a confection-like, sweet and powdery take on violets. I far prefer the original Eau de Toilette, which is smooth and sweet but with some nuance; but if you want a full power, almost pure medicinal-sweet violet effect… go for the more intense Eau de Parfum.
Gucci – Guilty Love Edition Pour Femme
I’m not a fan of the super long name, but I do like the scent! Like its pillar, this is a modern fragrance with retro vibes – this time, with a lipstick-like main accord that comes from violet & raspberry. Citruses, watery notes and soft-focus fresh florals complement the composition.
Dolce&Gabbana – The Only One
Powdery violets are joined by rose, iris, vanilla, orange blossom, caramel and coffee in this beautiful fragrance. A charming mix of fine make-up, caramel latte and a flower bouquet, this is one of my favourite gourmand scents, warm, sweet and complex. Even with its many notes, violet is one of the main stars.
Cosmetic Violet (+ Rose)
Guerlain – L’Heure Bleue
My personal favourite in this list (and the competition is tough!), this classic from 1912 is a sophisticated, romantic composition inspired by the Blue Hour. The violet note shines from the medicinal opening to the cosmetic-resinous drydown, and make me think of deep blue, velvety petals. Other prominent notes include heliotrope, anise, iris, carnation and tonka bean. A gorgeous masterpiece!
Kenzo – Flower
Heavy but fresh, this classic from Kenzo is a must-try for fans of powdery perfumes. Its combo of Parma violets, rose and inedible vanilla over a smooth resinous base creates a clean, romantic, memorable scent that brings to mind fluffy powder puffs. It has violets in the spotlight, not medicinal nor overly sweet, with a cosmetic-style rendering.
Yves Saint Laurent – Paris
In a similar vein to Flower, YSL Paris is a super powdery, super feminine bouquet centred around violets & roses – with a dash of iris, mimosa, lily of the valley and hiacynth. Compared to the Kenzo, this has a slightly sweeter take on the violets, but also a spicy-woody base. Complex and traditional-feeling, but not exclusive for fans of retro scents. Very romantic.
Chanel – Misia
Part of Chanel’s Les Exclusifs line, Misia centres around a cosmetic accord with violet, rose, raspberry and powdery notes (orris & tonka) wrapped in soft leather. With a medicinal opening and densely powdery drydown, it smells somewhat similar to Paris, but with a heavier vintage patina over its lipstick & compact powder impression.
Violets are rarely the main star of modern perfumes, being more often hiding in the back – which is a shame. I really like this note and the fragrances where it can shine.
What’s your favourite violet-centric fragrance? Your least favourite one? Share your thoughts!
A Tea-Scented Library 