Fragrance Review: Starck – Peau de Lumière Magique

Being an interior designer, I was familiar with the work of Philippe Starck (my favourites being the Louis Ghost chairs), but was surprised to know a fragrance line under his brand.

Developed by perfumer Daphne Bugey and launched in 2018, Peau de Lumière Magique is the first Starck fragrance I’ve got to try, having received a small sample in a store. And, from briefly wearing this sample, here are my thoughts…

Review

Peau de Lumière Magique is a white floral fragrance, and from the initial spray, what comes to me is a flower in particular: tuberose. It’s more on the bubblegum-y grape soda side instead of the natural tuberose of Gucci Bloom; but not as plasticky as in Givenchy L’Interdit. This note, which to me is also the “main” element of this fragrance, feels smooth and almost waxy, not too sweet, and with a nice sense of transparency.

Almost immediately after, a zingy spiciness comes along – from ginger and pepper. Mixed with tuberose, this accord creates to me a distinct impression of ginger ale, and I start to associate Peau de Lumière Magique with Yves Saint Laurent Libre… but they have their differences. While Libre fully evokes the watery, light bubblyness of “soda”, Peau de Lumière Magique’s florals feel creamier, and are supported by a woody base.

Now, this is where this fragrance loses points for me. The patchouli base, earthy and grounded, complements the other notes, and give Peau de Lumière Magique a distinct character – herbal and woody, yet feminine… or almost. I’m not sure if it’s the patchouli, or the ginger-pepper combo, but somewhere in this fragrance I get an impression of… aftershave. It’s subtle at first, yet my nose can’t ignore it, and it becomes more pronounced as it dries down.

Fragrance Impressions

Notes: Ginger, citrus, pepper, white flowers, Indian jasmine, patchouli.

Colour Impression: Tan Beige.

Evokes: A baggy beige coat and flat shoes; a modern suede bag.

Similar to: YSL Libre; Chanel Chance (EdP); Hermès Twilly.

Season & Occasion: Very autumnal, but fit for year-round. Daytime.

Conclusion

Even though I’m not a fan of “bubblegum”-type tuberose, I was pleasantly surprised by Peau de Lumière Magique’s opening, with its light, creamy take on this note, beautifully paired with a touch of spices and a smooth woody undertone.

The “aftershave” impression, though, kind of ruins the composition for me, making it too masculine as it dries down. If it weren’t for it, I’d probably give this fragrance 3 stars, as the accords feel unique and pleasant.

Peau de Lumière Magique is almost nice, but, when it comes to fragrances in a similar style, I prefer…

Not exactly similar in smell, but in general idea… Hermès Elixir des Merveilles is a feminine fragrance with unissex-leaning style, and a citrus-woody character. Here, an intense orange is paired with resinous & incense notes, over cedar, sandalwood and oak – with a surprising hint of caramel. Strong and serious, interesting and complex.

And, in a similar bottle… Chanel Chance (EdP) centers around citrusy jasmine, pink pepper & patchouli. It’s softer and creamier than the Hermès, as well as more floral. It has a similar scent profile to Peau de Lumière Magique as a creamy, slightly spicy patchouli fragrance – but I find Chance smoother, and more delicate.